Mélissa Le Nevé
Personal information | |||||||||||||||
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Nationality | French | ||||||||||||||
Born | 8 July 1989 | ||||||||||||||
Occupation | Professional rock climber | ||||||||||||||
Height | 169 cm (5 ft 7 in) | ||||||||||||||
Weight | 50 kg (110 lb) | ||||||||||||||
Climbing career | |||||||||||||||
Type of climber | |||||||||||||||
Highest grade | |||||||||||||||
Known for | First female free ascent of Action Directe 9a (5.14d) | ||||||||||||||
Retired | 2016 (competition) | ||||||||||||||
Medal record
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Updated on 20 January 2022. |
Mélissa Le Nevé (born July 8, 1989) is a French professional rock climber specializing in competition bouldering, but and also in outdoor sport climbing and bouldering.
Early life
Le Nevé grew up in the Vosges until she was 10, and later began climbing at age 15, at a gym near Bordeaux.
Climbing career
Competition climbing
Le Nevé focused her competition climbing career on the discipline of bouldering. Le Nevé was the French women's bouldering champion in 2010 and 2013, placed fourth in the 2011 IFSC Bouldering World Cup overall standings, and placed 2nd at individual IFSC World Cup events in Slovenia (2013), Switzerland (2016), and Japan (2016). She retired from competitive climbing in 2016, after finishing third in that year's IFSC Bouldering World Cup.
Rock climbing
In 2015, she became the first woman to climb a set of boulders in Fontainebleau called the "Big Five", one of which–Atrésie–is rated 8A (V11). In December 2016, she climbed an 8B (V13) boulder in Fontainebleau, La Cicatrice de L'Ohm. In 2017, she climbed the 8B+ (V14) problem, Mécanique élémentaire, at Fontainebleau.
Le Nevé has also climbed some of the hardest outdoor sport climbing routes. In 2014, she made the first female free ascent (FFFA) of Wallstreet, an 8c (5.14b) sport climbing route in the Frankenjura. In April 2020, she made the first free female ascent of Wolfgang Güllich's iconic route Action Directe (XI, 9a) in Frankenjura.
Personal life
She lives in Fontainebleau.
Filmography
- Le Nevé's 2020 ascent of Action Directe: Lowell, Josh (director), Mortimer, Peter (director) (2020). ReelRock 15 (Motion picture). Sender Films. Retrieved 27 December 2021.